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What Is the Difference Between a DP2 and DP3 Insurance Policy?

What Is the Difference Between a DP2 and DP3 Insurance Policy?

The Real Meaning of DP2 and DP3 in Plain Language

Let’s clear the fog. DP stands for Dwelling Property. These policies protect rental homes, vacation cabins, or other non-owner-occupied residential buildings. They don’t cover personal belongings or liability—the tenant handles that. These are for the structure: walls, roof, plumbing. DP2 and DP3 are part of a standardized system created by the Insurance Services Office (ISO), a group that drafts model policies insurers tweak and sell. But here’s what people don’t think about enough: just because the forms are standardized doesn’t mean every insurer applies them the same way. One company’s DP3 might have tighter exclusions than another’s DP2. That changes everything.

The core difference? Risk coverage philosophy. A DP2 policy operates on a named-perils basis. That means your home gets protection only if the damage comes from a specific cause listed in the policy. Think fire, windstorm, vandalism. If something happens that’s not on that list? You’re out of luck. The DP3, on the other hand, flips the script. It’s an open-perils or all-risk policy. That means it covers every possible cause of loss—except those explicitly carved out. Theft? Covered. Hail damage? Covered. A meteor strike? Well, probably not, because meteorites are usually excluded (who knew?). But you get the idea: the burden shifts. With DP2, you prove the peril was named. With DP3, the insurer must prove it was excluded.

Understanding the ISO Framework

ISO didn’t invent insurance, but they did create templates so insurers don’t reinvent the wheel. Their forms—DP1, DP2, DP3—form a hierarchy. DP1 is the bare bones, rarely used today. DP2 sits in the middle. DP3 is the top tier. And yes, it costs more. But cost isn’t the whole story. In 2023, 68% of new landlord policies issued in Florida were DP3s, up from 54% in 2019. Why? Because hurricanes don’t care about your “named perils.” When a Category 4 slams into the Gulf Coast, insurers saw a wave of DP2 claims denied over technicalities—water damage from storm surge versus wind-driven rain, for instance. That’s when the industry started pushing DP3s as the smarter default—even at a 15–25% higher premium.

What "Dwelling Property" Actually Covers

The dwelling. Full stop. That includes the roof, foundation, attached decks, HVAC systems, and built-in appliances. It does not include your tenant’s couch, their broken laptop, or the dog that bit the mailman. Separate policies handle that. What’s often overlooked is coverage for materials and supplies at the job site—say, a pile of shingles waiting to be installed. Both DP2 and DP3 cover those for up to 30 days, up to 10% of the dwelling limit. Small thing. But if a storm blows them into a neighbor’s pool, it matters.

DP2 Policies: What You Gain (and Lose)

DP2 policies cover 10 named perils. Fire or lightning. Windstorm or hail. Explosion. Riot or civil commotion. Aircraft or vehicle impact. Smoke. Vandalism or malicious mischief. Theft. Volcanic eruption. And weight of ice, snow, or sleet. That sounds comprehensive—until you realize what’s missing. Earthquake? Not covered. Flood? No. Power surge from a lightning strike that didn’t ignite a fire? Probably not. Ground movement? Forget it. And here’s the kicker: if a pipe bursts due to freezing, it’s covered. But if it bursts because of poor maintenance? That’s a gray zone. DP2 doesn’t cover “wear and tear”—but insurers love to argue that’s what happened.

And that’s exactly where landlords get burned. A 2021 study by the National Association of Insurance Commissioners found that 31% of denied DP2 claims involved disputes over whether the cause was truly a named peril. One case in Ohio: a roof collapsed under snow load. Insurer claimed it was structural deficiency, not the weight of snow. The policyholder sued. They settled out of court. Was the DP2 at fault? Maybe. But the ambiguity is the problem. Because DP2 forces you into a forensic argument over causation, it often drags claims into a legal swamp. Is it cheaper? Yes. A typical DP2 on a $300,000 rental in North Carolina runs about $920/year. But you’re betting the farm on the idea that disasters will only come from the list.

Covered Perils Under DP2

Fire, lightning, wind, hail, explosion—these are the big ones. Theft is included, which matters if someone strips copper pipes. Vandalism coverage is crucial in vacant properties. But here’s a blind spot: water damage. A DP2 covers sudden and accidental discharge from plumbing—but only if it’s not due to lack of maintenance. So if you ignored a drip for six months and the floor caves in, don’t expect a check. And sewer backup? Not covered unless you add an endorsement. That’s an extra $50–$150 annually. We’re far from it being a full safety net.

Where DP2 Falls Short

It’s the unknown unknowns. A tree falls—not from wind, but because termites weakened it. Is that windstorm? No. Is it “inherent vice”? Possibly. DP2 won’t touch it. Same with mold. If it stems from a covered peril—say, a hail breach that let in rain—it might be covered. But if it’s just poor ventilation? Denied. The issue remains: DP2 requires a direct line from event to named cause. Real-world damage is messier. Because nature doesn’t follow insurance manuals.

DP3 Policies: Broader Protection with Fewer Loopholes

The DP3 is the “if it breaks, we’ll look at it” policy. It covers all risks of direct physical loss unless specifically excluded. That includes everything in the DP2 list—plus more. Falling objects. Weight of people or animals on a roof. Accidental damage by tenants (within reason). Even business income loss due to covered damage—for up to 12 months. This is where it gets tricky: exclusions still exist. Earth movement. Flood. War. Nuclear hazard. Wear and tear. But the burden of proof is on the insurer. You don’t have to argue whether wind caused the roof lift. They have to prove it was excluded—say, poor installation or pre-existing rot.

A 2022 report from CoreLogic showed that DP3 claims were settled 22% faster on average than DP2 claims. Why? Less back-and-forth over causation. In a windstorm in Texas, a DP3 policyholder filed for roof and siding damage. Insurer tried to deny it, citing “pre-existing damage.” But under DP3, they had to prove it. They couldn’t. Payout: $47,000. With a DP2, that same claim might have stalled. Hence, the shift toward DP3s. That said, they cost more. A DP3 on that same $300,000 rental in North Carolina averages $1,150/year—about $230 more. Is it worth it? For most, yes. But not always.

Open Perils vs. Named Perils: The Real-World Impact

Imagine two identical houses. One has a DP2, one has a DP3. Both suffer roof damage during a microburst. The DP2 policyholder must prove it was windstorm—a named peril. Adjuster argues it was “poor shingle quality.” Claim denied. The DP3 policyholder files. Adjuster still questions quality. But under open perils, the insurer must prove it was excluded maintenance. They can’t. Claim paid. Same event. Different outcome. That’s the structural advantage. It’s a bit like having a constitutional presumption of innocence versus proving your case beyond doubt.

Common Exclusions in DP3 (and How They Sting)

Earthquake. Flood. Sewer backup. Ordinance or law (like having to rebuild to new codes). Cyber incidents. These aren’t covered. But here’s the surprise: many DP3 policies exclude “fungi, wet or dry rot, bacteria” unless they result from a covered water loss. So if mold grows because of humidity, no. If it grows after a burst pipe? Covered. It’s nuanced. And insurers exploit that nuance. One landlord in Oregon had a DP3, but the claim for mold was denied because “the pipe leak was due to freezing, which was a maintenance failure.” The policy excluded “freezing of plumbing not properly maintained.” They lost. So even DP3 isn’t bulletproof.

DP2 vs DP3: Which Should You Choose?

It depends. For a newer rental in a low-risk area—say, a duplex in Nebraska with central heat and no flood history—a DP2 might suffice. You’re saving $200–$300 a year. But for a beachfront condo in South Carolina? A 100-year-old farmhouse in Vermont? Go DP3. The risk profile changes everything. And let’s be clear about this: insurers often push DP2s on new landlords because they’re cheaper and easier to sell. But they’re not always in your best interest. I find this overrated the idea that “you’ll never need the extra coverage.” Disasters don’t schedule appointments.

To give a sense of scale: in high-wind zones, DP3 policies pay out 38% more in claims over a 10-year period. But in low-risk areas, the difference drops to 9%. So location matters. Also consider tenant behavior. A family with kids? Less risk. A party rental? Higher chance of accidental damage—something DP3 covers better. Because DP2 doesn’t cover “accidental” losses unless they fall under a named peril. Spilled paint? No. Kicked-in drywall? Maybe if it’s vandalism. But not if it’s just clumsy.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I Upgrade from DP2 to DP3 Later?

Yes. Most insurers allow mid-term upgrades. You’ll need a new inspection, and premiums will adjust. But you can’t retroactively cover a loss. If your roof blew off last week under DP2 and you upgrade today, it won’t help. Timing is everything. And some companies require a clean claims history to qualify for DP3.

Does DP3 Cover Tenant Damage?

It depends. Accidental damage—like a hole in the wall from moving furniture—may be covered. But intentional destruction or neglect isn’t. And you’d still need to prove it wasn’t pre-existing. Because the line between “accident” and “wear and tear” is thin. That said, DP3 is more forgiving than DP2 here.

Are Flood and Earthquake Covered Under Either?

Neither. Both DP2 and DP3 exclude flood and earthquake. You need separate policies. FEMA estimates that 40% of flood claims come from moderate-to-low-risk areas. So even if you’re not near water, it’s worth considering. A flood policy for a $250,000 home averages $700/year through the National Flood Insurance Program.

The Bottom Line

You want protection, not paperwork battles. The DP3 is stronger. It shifts the burden of proof. It covers more. But it costs more. For high-risk properties, it’s worth every penny. For low-risk, stable rentals, a DP2 with added endorsements—like sewer backup or ordinance coverage—might be smarter. Because stacking protections can sometimes beat chasing “all-risk.” Honestly, it is unclear which is universally better. It depends on your property, location, and risk tolerance. But if you only remember one thing: named perils limit you. Open perils give you room to breathe. And in insurance, breathing room is everything.

💡 Key Takeaways

  • Is 6 a good height? - The average height of a human male is 5'10". So 6 foot is only slightly more than average by 2 inches. So 6 foot is above average, not tall.
  • Is 172 cm good for a man? - Yes it is. Average height of male in India is 166.3 cm (i.e. 5 ft 5.5 inches) while for female it is 152.6 cm (i.e. 5 ft) approximately.
  • How much height should a boy have to look attractive? - Well, fellas, worry no more, because a new study has revealed 5ft 8in is the ideal height for a man.
  • Is 165 cm normal for a 15 year old? - The predicted height for a female, based on your parents heights, is 155 to 165cm. Most 15 year old girls are nearly done growing. I was too.
  • Is 160 cm too tall for a 12 year old? - How Tall Should a 12 Year Old Be? We can only speak to national average heights here in North America, whereby, a 12 year old girl would be between 13

❓ Frequently Asked Questions

1. Is 6 a good height?

The average height of a human male is 5'10". So 6 foot is only slightly more than average by 2 inches. So 6 foot is above average, not tall.

2. Is 172 cm good for a man?

Yes it is. Average height of male in India is 166.3 cm (i.e. 5 ft 5.5 inches) while for female it is 152.6 cm (i.e. 5 ft) approximately. So, as far as your question is concerned, aforesaid height is above average in both cases.

3. How much height should a boy have to look attractive?

Well, fellas, worry no more, because a new study has revealed 5ft 8in is the ideal height for a man. Dating app Badoo has revealed the most right-swiped heights based on their users aged 18 to 30.

4. Is 165 cm normal for a 15 year old?

The predicted height for a female, based on your parents heights, is 155 to 165cm. Most 15 year old girls are nearly done growing. I was too. It's a very normal height for a girl.

5. Is 160 cm too tall for a 12 year old?

How Tall Should a 12 Year Old Be? We can only speak to national average heights here in North America, whereby, a 12 year old girl would be between 137 cm to 162 cm tall (4-1/2 to 5-1/3 feet). A 12 year old boy should be between 137 cm to 160 cm tall (4-1/2 to 5-1/4 feet).

6. How tall is a average 15 year old?

Average Height to Weight for Teenage Boys - 13 to 20 Years
Male Teens: 13 - 20 Years)
14 Years112.0 lb. (50.8 kg)64.5" (163.8 cm)
15 Years123.5 lb. (56.02 kg)67.0" (170.1 cm)
16 Years134.0 lb. (60.78 kg)68.3" (173.4 cm)
17 Years142.0 lb. (64.41 kg)69.0" (175.2 cm)

7. How to get taller at 18?

Staying physically active is even more essential from childhood to grow and improve overall health. But taking it up even in adulthood can help you add a few inches to your height. Strength-building exercises, yoga, jumping rope, and biking all can help to increase your flexibility and grow a few inches taller.

8. Is 5.7 a good height for a 15 year old boy?

Generally speaking, the average height for 15 year olds girls is 62.9 inches (or 159.7 cm). On the other hand, teen boys at the age of 15 have a much higher average height, which is 67.0 inches (or 170.1 cm).

9. Can you grow between 16 and 18?

Most girls stop growing taller by age 14 or 15. However, after their early teenage growth spurt, boys continue gaining height at a gradual pace until around 18. Note that some kids will stop growing earlier and others may keep growing a year or two more.

10. Can you grow 1 cm after 17?

Even with a healthy diet, most people's height won't increase after age 18 to 20. The graph below shows the rate of growth from birth to age 20. As you can see, the growth lines fall to zero between ages 18 and 20 ( 7 , 8 ). The reason why your height stops increasing is your bones, specifically your growth plates.